Destination Laos: Part 25 "Boy you are Malaysian ah?"

Bumped into this old hippie who just sat there quietly with his Beerlao watching me and the Israeli Amid have a dinner of baguette, spring rolls, a big bag of vermicelli which we ate using his metal spoon bought from the the Chiang Mai night market - of which he had a long story to tell, and piping hot Lao coffee with milk in the night market, seated on the raised wooden platforms of the night market, which served as stalls earlier in the evening.

He whispered "Boy, you are Malaysian ah" out of the blue (we had thought he was Lao) in his raspy, sandpaper voice, from which one could hear the years of experience and travelling, which also evident in his appearance. Dressed simply in an old shirt, unbuttoned, shorts, and flipflops, he just sat down with his can of beer, smiling serenely and returning our sabaidees.

Apparently he was one of them hippies who plied the Hippie Highway from Oz to London, him making his way on a ferry from Penang Island in Malaysia bound for Madras, India, before making it to Italy overland, working when he ran out of cash. It was 4 years later before he finally went home to Malaysia.

He said he had worked as an actor in Italy, acting in stage productions. "Perlakon (Malay for actor)", he intoned when i couldn't catch him when he whispered "actor", or maybe because i was actually coming to terms with this chance encounter with a fellow Malaysian backpacker in a marketplace in Laos.

An old hippie, a fellow solo traveller, an aged vagabond, who probably have seen it all, just sitting down sipping his beer with no hurry and watching the world go by. He probably saw in me himself some 40 years ago, as i did see in him as possibly what i would be like in 40 years.

The irony of the situation (or is it fate) is that now, as i'm typing this entry, i'm headed the same way, to Madras, now Chennai, a booming industrial city from the sea port of the British colonial empire, newly independent, 40 years ago.

Destination Laos: Part 24 Caves and Waterfalls

Pak Ou Caves - disappointing, nothing special, the morning boat ride down the Mekong was fun though (2 hours going - just to see a cave!, and another one and half back), chugging down the muddy and languid waters of the Mekong, wondering if there were any monstrous catfish or head-sucking nagas (seriously, locals tell tales of drowned corpses with shrivelled heads sucked clean) prowling its depths. The water was brown, the boat didn't look all that safe, tendrils of mist still clinging on to the thickly forested mountains on both banks on a chilly December morning, with the occassional farm and people working on them. It got me thinking about the nagas quite a lot.

Above: Nagas and monstour catfish lurk (probably. A result of a wandering mind as does occur when one has to seat on a small seat for 2 hours on a boringly cold December morning.)

Saw the (in)famous speedboats headed downriver - crazy fast, but probably crazy dangerous as well. Why else do you think they hand out crash helmets to passengers in a country where attitude towards transport safety can be described as cavalier at best? It makes me wonder.

The Kuang Si waterfalls were much better - and I shall let the pictures do the talking. Caught a glimpse of the "mascot" of the park on the way back - Phan, who just ambled over to where we were and sat down for photos. He's a tiger, by the way.

The park, in which the falls are located, is scenic, with benches and rest areas. Really atmospheric waterfall, spectacularly landscaped, as if one was uprooted from the tame surroundings of the park and transported into deep unexplored tropical jungle. Multitiered, cool turquoise pools fed into a river, and lush vegetation surrounding it. The only flipside to an awe-inspiring sight was the crowds. But what did i expect yea? When some place gets discovered, and some place as beautiful as this, you'd expect people to follow. Would have been amazing discovering this for yourself, say trekking through the jungle, stopping dead in your tracks and just going wow.

Tiger tiger burning bright - Phan poses for a photo

Thanks mummie! =P

haha, my mom just linked me to a very enlightening website on train travel in India. It's here for all you train junkies who're headed my way. Really excellent and some hard-to-find info about train travel in an amazing range of countries. To be precise, from Andorra to Zimbabwe, literally not figuratively. Plus recent pictures on what the trains and carriages really look lie. Just that the text is a bit on the small side - well at least it looks small on my laptop...

My gear is sorted - same old trusty 30 litre Deuter backpack, basically the same kit as Laos, minus a few shirts and pants, more socks and with one more money pouch (the decoy) as i'm carrying more cash now. And (hopefully) one more ATM card from my friendly local bank that i'm gonna process tomorrow.

So that leaves planning. lol. I'm going to have to start putting it out on paper real soon (7 more days!) - right now its bits and pieces swimming around, somewhere, in my mind. Roughly Chennai to Pondicherry and back, then by train to Kochi in Kerala, then a pitstop at Mangalore before continuing upwards to Margao in Goa. Detour to Hampi after that, and then back on the west coast up to Mumbai, don't know if i can fit in a sidetrip to the Ajanta caves here, we'll see. After Mumbai it's to the desert state of Rajasthan where mughals once reigned in mighty fortresses, with a pitstop at Ahmedabad before taking a bus to Udaipur then Jaisalmer. From there i'm making for Delhi, and a quick jaunt up to Attari for the border closing and maybe spending a short time at McLeod Ganj.

It already seems like a lot to cover in a month and a half. Think i might have to cut down on some sights already.... But on paper at least, after going back to Delhi i'll be heading to the Taj Mahal at Agra, then Khajuraho and Varanasi before going north and crossing the India-Nepal border at Lumbini.

Crossing into Nepal what i have in mind is going to Lumbini for a few days before making for Pokhara and possibly doing an apple pie trek there (Annapurna on the mind) - it's a toss up between this and EBC (Everest Base Camp). Pokhara to Kathmandu by bus, flying into Lukla still on the cards if doing EBC, and maybe scheduling some paragliding or white water rafting nearby. Royal Chitwan if possible, heard this one is rated quite highly by travellers. Then it's another adventure in sunny Thailand =) flying from Kathmandu to Bangkok and possibly get beached out/spend the last of my rupees/baht before getting on that plane home.

Sounds like a great time.

Destination Laos: Part 23 Misty Morning in Luang Prabang

Misty morning in Luang Prabang, looking across the Mekong Nam.

French baguette spread with Laughing Cow cheese, stuffed with canned ham, strips of carrots and cucumbers and finished off with a dollop of ketchup before it is packed tightly with a rubber band in paper and plastic bag. Breakfast, sitting on the pavement's edge right in front of the night market in the middle of Luang Prabang, next to the post office, another French colonial leftover. Watching frangipani trees shed their blooms onto the floor - no surprise its the Lao national flower (named Champa) as i later found out back home surfing the net, and the odd tuk tuk and moto going by, mostly carrying the local women going to the market this early in the morning, with rattan baskets of vegetables balanced precariously on their vehicles.

Above: Moving out of the Phakam, a nice quiet place to stay tucked in a residential suburb

I enjoy watching package tourists, from my seat on the pavement across the road from some hotels which obviously i would never afford. At about 7 a.m. the deluge of them came down hunting for food. They remind me of the follies and petty grievances of the life i all but left behind the moment i got off that plane - trying to bargain and "show who's boss" when buying a 9,000 kip baguette, for instance, and rudely shoving their cameras into everyone's faces as if they were but exhibits.

Above: Rain-drenched alley that comes to life at night as a local market selling an amazing array of food and snacks.

The reason i was up and about early that day was due to my eviction from the Phakam, as rhey were already fully booked for today. Did make a reservation at the Oudomphone for the night, the elderly owner promising me a choice of rooms 4 or 10 - either one would do perfectly, but when i got back from the caves and waterfall, they "forgot" and i went room hunting for another night, this time with company though. 2 Canadians who spoke fluent Mandarin Chinese and an Israeli fresh off the Pak Beng boat formed the rather irritable foursome who skulked through almost all the alleys of Luang Prabang and, because of "contrarian theory" decided to look at our collective guidebooks to find the top listed places to stay and give those a miss to better our chances.

It wasn't much better. In the end, we split ways, me and the Israeli heading one way off Thanon Sisavangvong while the Canadians went the other, wishing each other good luck in our increasingly futile (and desperate) bid not to sleep on the streets of Luang Prabang, pretty though it was, for the night.

Finally, 17 dollars got me the last room at a restaurant-hotel. Le Tam Tam, i think it's called. Easily the most expensive place i've ever paid for in my travels (i'm cheap). Moving out tomorrow, and pre-emptivity and a better understanding of the mad scramble at 6 when the boats pull in from the Golden Triangle made me book (and damn well doubly triple confirm it) a bed at Levady's for the next 3 nights, where walking in i bumped into the Israeli, Amid again.

Above: One of the small joys of travelling - breakfast! It's always exciting and fun to wake up, wash up and then go downstairs looking for breakfast, seeing where the local people eat and occassionally joining them for a hot cup of tea/coffee and a chat. Or just sitting on one of those little plastic toy-like stools or nearby steps and benches to sample that exotic-looking, new food that you have never seen, much less tasted before, watching the world go by, your newly adopted country going about its daily business.

Destination Laos: Part 22 Luang Prabang at night

Finally found a room at the Phakam Guesthouse after much walking around the riverside of Luang Prabang, where an eclectic mix of quaint old shophouses, local residences and dimly-lit eateries line the Mekong river, now draped in darkness, with the quirky odd guesthouse or chi-chi restaurant sandwiched in between, or even within these enclaves, with small wooden signs leading you into a narrow alley and up random flights of steps before you find that hidden place.

The whole effect was fantastic, surreal. It didn't feel like a tourist hub (which it is) at all, but rather very intriguingly and mysteriosuly beguiling, promises of finding some hidden place, some nice restaurant or a welcoming guesthouse aroud the corner, or in the midst of the cluster of Lao homes, if you would brave the barking dogs and follow the signs that seemingly lead you on a wild goose chase. All part of the fun - the journey, not the destination indeed. Very bohemian feel to it all. No crazy traffic, no ugly concrete monsters.

Also i'm thankful that Luang Prabang is not as cold as Phonsavanh - where else in Southeast Asia can you hear Canadians complaining about the cold? Leaving the frigid frontlines of Phonsavanh behind for 12 dollar a night, artistically and tastefully decorated (i'm tempted to call it boutique) rooms at the Phakam, with swoon-worthy spacious and spotless bathrooms and "no fail hot showers" as LP promises (ok alot of alliteration and feminine rhyme going on here - i noticed its a bit of a tongue twisting effort saying the above sentence but seriously it was that impressive), it was love at first sight. Ok, strike that. It was a very welcome change from the sand, cold and more cold which you would have noticed are the main adjectives for Phonsavanh.

Went wandering around the UNESCO World Heritage listed city after dumping my stuff at the Phakam. I remembered walking right past the Museum to go like - wow. The night market was really something really unexpected. I thought Luang Prabang was another of those over-hyped, tourist packed Disneylands. Boy was i wrong.

It was amazing. Tranquil and scenic, the neat rows of tungsten lamps running through the middle of the street providing the only illumination and a nice touch of surrealism. The quiet also made it otherwordly as traders sat cross legged on the floor beside their wares, whilst visitors strolled through the street market under the stars. The food is great too - had some cold, but nevertheless very good spring rolls from a side street vendor, with a few bags of condiments thrown in and really great coffee at 5,000 kip, served fresh in a bamboo cup with a cute little blue/pink/green plastic spoon.

Booked a tour to the Pak Ou caves followed by a trip to the Kuang Si waterfalls tomorrow, which from what i've heard from this South African dude in Phonsavanh was pretty amazing. The guy who sold me that tour - really friendly and wanted to learn some Mandarin Chinese from me. I ended up writing him his name in Chinese - Mr. Ah Loon, which he seemed really pleased with and he taught me some Laos in return - i can count from one to ten now! =)

So, first night in Luang Prabang. Hectic, finding a room at last, but fun nevertheless, and Luang Prabang really blew me away. Charmed. I haven't even seen the city by day yet - it must be stunning.

Random update 2: Neverending summer

India is right around the corner - 15 days, around 2 weeks before i will be in Chennai man, Madras. Can't believe it. On the road again, this time an almost neverending summer of 3 months - Seger's Kathmandu and my eclectic mix of travel songs (Simon and Garfunkel does bring back a lot of memories) getting me through...

2 more days to freedom - i can almost smell it =) That day i was making a list of things to do after the exams - where to eat, where to get my gear, maybe head back to my old school, meet up with a few friends i havent seen in half a year...

On the horizon - Spanish and Southeast Asian history papers - my fav! a result of flipping through the history section of Lonely Planet for like the hundreth time on those huge, kickass 12 hour rides across rural Southeast Asia. Finally seeing a tangible benefit of those long, bone rattling, butt breaking jaunts. Wednesday and Thursday evening papers, then i'm done. Free. Liberated. Emancipated. Right. =P

Random update 1

Sorry no updates for a while... Busy with exams... which will be over in exactly 241.5 hours as we speak.

Been watching the situation in Nepal, hope things will turn out ok. Also getting my pills for India - diarrhoea stopper, rehydration salts etc... A few long nights studying, aside from that surviving and just looking forward to going off in about 3 weeks.

Will have to sort out the travel insurance and money issues soon, and getting some stuff i.e. a flashlight that was confiscated by Singapore immigration and a money belt to act as a decoy, which i will stuff with many small notes and weird, fantastic stuff to make potential robbers think they've stumbled on treasure. And then, while they're bedazzled with their loot, make my getaway. Yeah =) Travelling breeds resourcefulness, no? Like a certain Irish acquaintance who went around Romania (and much of Eastern Europe) with a syringe of Ribena (which was actually HIV infected blood, really) and waved it at any shifty characters that attempted to, ahem, separate him from his possessions when camping overnight outside the city.