Destination Laos: Part 3 Sandalwood City

On the friendship bridge and looking at the Lao and ubiquitous red hammer and sickle flags fluttering lazily in the breeze, with some wooden huts lining the river bank provided a good teaser to what was to come in Lao, or more romantically, Lane Xang Hom Khao, the Kingdom of a Million Elephants and the White Parasol, a symbol of royalty.

Stepping off the bus was a liberating experience - i suspect i let off a long whoop of joy as i stepped off the bus, leaving the dusty, concrete Air America base of Udon Thani behind to be accosted by dozens of touts right at the bus door, a scene as romantic, to me, as any in Southeast Asia, as representative and typical of the vibrant, and oftentimes chaotic beauty of Southeast Asia, that is, really, an acquired taste.

Not very different form the Hawaiian girls that, in my mind, greet you when you step off the aircraft, just that instead of flower garlands we get pamphlets extolling the virtues of a particular guesthouse or tuk tuk service. Welcome to Vientiane, Lao PDR. As good a welcome as any.

The energy and vibrance I felt once i stepped onto the dusty, yellow earth which was the Talat Sao (Morning Market) Bus Station (kew lot mei, in Lao). I think i really amused locals with my Laos during the first few days of my visit, but it was just a matter of a few days and some rather blush/grimace inducing attempts before i spoke at least correct Laos, and some odd witty phrases.

Really good bazaar like atmosphere at the bus station, with people peddling stuff off baskets slung across their shoulders, and more conventional vendors sitting on the earth, their wares, from rattan baskets, tapioca rolls, to the latest in Lao pop and drama displayed in front of them. And really friendly people too, who often asked where i was going and guided me, with a smile there.

Checked into Joe Guesthouse, right in front of the riverside where they have some fabulous stalls that spring out at night selling grilled fish, chicken (ping kai) amongst many other meats, served with papaya salad and cold beer Lao, the best brew in the region, and in my opinion, only San Miguel of the Philippines come even remotely close to matching it. And for around 1 US dollar a large bottle too. So it really is hard to find anything wrong about Beer Lao.

Joe Guesthouse - feels like old times living in hostels again. No visitors, no shoes, no weapons, no drugs, no gambling, no laundry, no cooking (really, all posted and pasted in the reception and each and every room available, stamped with an official looking tourism ministry insignia. To which someone has scrawled also in black marker no farting and no thank you.) And a 12 o clock curfew. In my mind i can hear Chairman Mao screaming radish communist, red on the outside but white on the inside. The facade was of a strict, no-nonsense socialist nation where the state was supreme, but beneath it and barely hidden is the friendliness and welcoming arms of a people and nation that is increasingly open and receptive to tourism and with it inevitably new ideas and supposedly "Western" influences.

It was sort of cheap at 5 dollars a night, clean single bed, wardrobe, some nicely furnished rooms with nice touches like a shawl hung from the wall and a nice lamp, though a tad dim. Shared bathrooms down the corridor were spotlessly clean and spacious too. And i was fine with the curfew too - it wasnt as if i plan to hang out at the neary Bor Pen Nyang bar (the all-glass facade was cool though) or go bowling every night.