Sihanoukville

Also known as Kompong Som, Sihanoukville is the beach destination of choice in Cambodia (if you can't wait for Thailand, have come from Laos , or have just destroyed your backside going up the numero uno road in Kampot Province and are in dire need for some relaxation (I had, and was)). While it certainly isn't outstanding (at point of visit in Jan 2007 - apparently there are plans afoot now to turn it into Phuket/Samui), it does have its charms. Among them, and for the moment, it is still relatively undeveloped as a tourist destination - there is still the distinct backpacker vibe around S'ville. Not as quiet as Phu Quoc, but nevertheless, quiet enough for a nice cocktail/read/suntan on the beach, with the occassional offers of massage and kids selling trinkets. Locals with fruit platters balanced gracefully on their heads - upon order the fruits are sliced and served in front of you, complete the scene at Sihanoukville.

At the moment, no annoying Japanese/Korean tour groups (sorry, but my research findings fail to disprove this theory), no touts, no persistent local trying to sell things you obviously don't need, no over-commercialisation. Reasons enough to go? I guess. It's not paradise on the Cambodian coast, but it sure is a welcome change from temples (if you're from Siem Reap), wilderness (Ratanakiri, Mondulkiri), or the tragedy of Pol Pot's genocidal reign (Phnom Penh - S21, Killing Fields).

Victory beach was the original backpackers beach. It gets two thumbs down from me. Main reason being that it is right beside the port, and a new jetty is being constructed. 'Nuff said about visual pollution. Promises of a fantastic sunset (see Sihanoukville Visitor's Guide)? Not really, as i found out having wasted an evening there. There was a grand total of one beach shack in operation. Combined with the fact that you could see the nearest guesthouse and the road if you just turn your head on the beach, Victory beach's ratings can't be very high on anyone's books.

Better (far) options for the evening at S'ville include having a nice dinner at a beachside cafe/restaurant on Serendipity beach, watching the sunset. Nightlife is one of Sihanoukville's main draws too, and most of it is centered around Serendipity, by far the better free beach on the coast. Free brings us to the fact that some beaches aren't free (hint hint the private beach at some posh hotel) - Find your own way of sneaking in, its part of the fun.

The nightlife- Sure the wild parties and fire twirling acts are nice, but i'd much prefer just sitting on the darkened and very quiet beach, listening to the tides crashing onto the beach. And think, what's a lad like me doing here? Its like i'm being let in into some secret, some hidden place that exists beyond the world that most of us know only too well - the world of corporate ladder climbing, paying for your car/house, having the obligatory 2.4 kids...

Other nicer beaches probable exist along Sihanoukville, just wander further down the coast, yes, the wander and be wondered theory applies everywhere. The main downside is the lack of hydration (think bars/pubs that line Serendipity), and the lack of transport (i had some trouble getting a moto after dark), and of course safety issues when it gets dark. But still, i like Serendipity just because its a good balance of all the things you look for in a beach destination - fresh seafood, good restaurants, cheap and plentiful liqour (the Angkor beer brewery is located in Sihanoukville), interesting nightlife along with the choice for some peace and quiet at night. Nice name too, apparently Bob, some American guy who came up with the name, if now in a court tussle with the Sihanoukville developers over the rights to the name. Oh well.